In-depth research of maypole and double-faced braiding

During the Fiber Fever Summercamp: Braided Ribbons at Timelab, the fifteen international participants researched the possibilities of different braiding techniques. As an introduction, they were invited to literally run the tracks and, by doing so, create largescale braids. Besides, Soft Connection Lab provided its braiding machines.

The participants were invited to focus on color/pattern, material or shape. Leipzig-based textile designer Magdalena Sophie Orland, Ghent-based industrial designer Rosan Pille and Brussels-based designer Annelies Clerix all explored the influence of a different use of colors on two specific braids. They wanted to see how the use of color can facilitate insights into the braiding technique and, by doing this, make it more accessible.

Two braids, different color schemes
Magdalena Orland decided to focus on the round braid or maypole braid which is a hollow braid and braided with the help of a kumihimo disk. Rosan Pille and Annelies Clerix put their focus on a double-faced flat braid, which is a braid that functions without any disk and follows an open-end braiding structure. Out of an endless amount of different braids, they choose these two braids, since their technique allowed them to experiment and manipulate the braid through different color use. Both braids are technically explained in the book of Noémie Speiser, called The Manual of Braiding, and the team used her explanations to create the braids.

All three were applying different color schemes in the two braids. For that, they studied the classic pattern with whole-colored yarns. While Annelies and Rosan mainly focused on using different yarns in different colors, Magdalena also experimented with ikat dyed yarns. She was curious to see how a yarn that is dyed in a repetitive pattern changes the perception of one and the same braid, and how it influences the final braid.

Open archive
Despite the fact the participants had braiding machines at their disposal, they clearly had a preference to work with hand-held kumihimo disks or directly with free-end hand braiding techniques. Although we would not have imagined the strong interest for hand braiding, it clearly has some advantages in the creation of samples. The disk allows to work with short lengths of yarn and to work wherever you like, such as the giant hammock at Timelab, Magdalena’s favorite spot. Besides, creating samples by hand is as fast as by using a machine. As you can sit wherever you want – as with knitting, it’s also easier to chat, which strongly enhanced the connection between the participants.

At the end presentation, the three participants showed an archive of different braids in a rather scientific way. Each braid got a separate file, clearly stating the different parameters, such as color, yarn and braiding technique, that were used to create the sample braid. This reflected the structured way of their research, which should function as an open archive: “We opted for these two braids because their technique allowed us to experiment with different colors and compositions and because they are easily manipulated to create new forms. Although they are both quite complicated to make, we hope the archive will make them more accessible and understandable.”

Summercamp Fiver Fever 23: BRAIDED RIBBONS
We use them every day. Braided ribbons, like ropes, shoelaces or the string of your hoodie, are the most ordinary objects. However, they have multiple associations, meanings, and functions. As these objects collect historical, cultural, technical, social and systemic layers, they inspired the Fiber Fever Summercamp 2023 at Timelab. Fifteen participants with different backgrounds focused on engineering, techniques, patterns, colors, movement/meaning and circular materials. They worked in mixed groups on the multiple aspects of braiding and presented these elements as one collective outcome. Besides VUB, Design Academy Eindhoven, UGent and LUCA Genk Soft Connection Lab was one of the main partners.